A city steeped in ancient history. A place of prayer and peace. In Varanasi, each nook and cranny, each narrow passage, each riverfront step that leads to the bank of the sacred Ganges river, tells a story. It is where time slows down and its dwellers and visitors alike are taken by its old-world charm. It is where people come to find respite from the affairs of everyday life.
In the winter, a gentle chill permeates the air. The river is enshrouded in a delicate veil of mist. In the wee hours of the morning, solitary figures emerge onto the ghats, draped in the warm and comforting embrace of a woolen shawl or a quilt taken straight from bed. The makeshift cloaks billow gently in the breeze, as people look upon the tranquil waters and sip their chai.
Not far from the shore, in the labyrinth of alleys, tea stalls become oases for travelers and daily wagers who are ready to embark on their day. The aroma of fragrant chai wafts through the lanes, while the sizzle and crackle from the stovetops of roadside vendors invite passers by to indulge in a local breakfast of kachori-sabzi, chaat, and hot glistening jalebis. Masterfully swirled into spirals of sweetness, they are loaded onto bowls of dried leaves. Each humble stall is a gastronomic hub here where people flock to begin their morning.
As the unobtrusive winter sun ascends the sky, cows–revered symbols of divinity in Hindu culture–meander through the narrow lanes, their gentle presence a reminder of the city’s spiritual fabric. Above them, monkeys mischievously jump from one rooftop to the next, observing what goes on below with curious eyes. As the day progresses, gentle rays of the afternoon sun draw people to their terraces to bask in its comfort. This commonplace winter tradition of sunbathing on terraces, is a celebration of life’s simple joys. It is a reminder that amidst the hustle and bustle of daily life, moments of stillness and warmth are essential. It is a time for connection with members of the household; for conversations with neighbors from adjoining houses perched atop their charpoys with quilts spread over their laps. In the courtyards below, women’s hands deftly arrange jars of pickles of carrots, chillies, and lemons to be sun-dried. Each vessel holds a precious creation, brimming with a burst of flavors. The aroma of mustard oil wafts through the air, mingling with the warmth of the winter sun. Everywhere you look, is a feast for the senses.
Come evening, the ghats once again become a focal point as the Ganga aarti transpires. The riverside comes alive in a cacophony of voices, ululating conches, bells, and cymbals. The sounds reverberate through the atmosphere as dusk settles with the centuries-old ritual in motion. Flickering oil lamps cast a warm glow over the river with their dancing flames, as the priests chant and rhythmically move their arms laden with lamps, incense sticks, and camphor; clockwise in perfect unison. As the dense white smoke rises in the cool air, devotees bow their heads in prayer, creating an atmosphere of spirituality that is almost palpable. As your gaze moves from the glimmering lights to the rest of the scene, seeing becomes a conscious, physical experience. Step into this world and you are part of it. All are welcome.
As the night grows deeper, people retreat to the safety of their dwellings. Accompanied by the faint whirring of electric heaters, the aroma of roasted peanuts, and warm beverages, stories are shared once again by members of the household in the embrace of cozy blankets. It is time to rest and rise tomorrow to begin again.
It is during this time of the year that Josie Ford, founder of Studio Ford, and photographer Ashish Shah make their pilgrimage to the holy city. Shah, whose work is entrenched in and evocative of India (his motherland) while being both empowering and deeply sensitive, showcases the slow, enchanting life of Varanasi. Here, life unfolds in moments of unplanned beauty captured by him. The two set out to photograph Studio Ford’s permanent collection, which revisits the block prints from Collection I in the form of quilted patterns, by the ghats and in the traditional courtyards and gardens of Varanasi’s homes. The characters Gaurav Gharu and Gauri Sharma interact with the textiles in these surroundings, evoking a feeling of intimacy and warmth.
As you turn the pages of this book and enter this visual pilgrimage, we hope you feel the magic and serenity that infuses Varanasi’s streets and the threads that connect past and present by Studio Ford.